All shitty puns aside, I recently uncovered a new use for Tumblr: discovering awesome shit. I mean, I always assumed Tumblr was simply a place where people could create online personas ,and reblog and caption their deepest and darkest fantasies without the bounds of social conventions and inhibitions. However, I now know that, notwithstanding some of the shit you see on Tumblr, there is nonetheless a small percentage of posts that are actually useful seeing as they expose you to some pretty amazing shit.
Case in point: Peir Wu.
(hence the pun, #leduh)
As an up-and-coming designer with an incredible amount of potential, Peir Wu represents one branch of the dichotomy that exists within this recent resurgence of menswear as a way of life. While on one end, there is what I classify as #menswear (the hashtag is not silent), which pretty much represents what seems to be the bizarre trend of wearing suits all the damn time in an attempt to seem like you’re from some other era (or whatever). Then, on the opposing side, there is what I deem as minimalist innovation in the form of new materials, shapes and design techniques.
While the former has already become too humdrum for my liking, the latter represents a multitude of opportunities for men to embrace style with a dose of much needed androgyny.
Anyhow, what I am pretty much trying to say is that Peir Wu’s designs represent a much-needed step forward in the name of menswear’s general aesthetic. By relying on modern cuts that showcase the fashion world’s current infatuation with everything androgynous, she is discreetly elaborating a new language in menswear, one that is focused on a more minimalist approach to dressing. Thus, Wu’s vision is something that, without being excessively drastic (read: pretentiously fashun-foward), represents a glimpse of what the future of menswear could be.
And boy, what a sublime future that is!
To put it concisely, menswear can essentially be summed up into a rather simple equation: 1 blazer/overcoat + 1 shirt + 1 pair of pants = an outfit. While the simplicity of menswear remains one of its main qualities, that equation regrettably does tend to get rather repetitive day after day. Hence, in light of that shockingly mundane realization, Peir Wu’s latest fall/winter 2013/14 collection, entitled “Paragraph,” is something like a subtle modernization of that classic equation. While still trying to subtly push its traditional boundaries, her designs remain reverent and referential to the basics of menswear.
Take for example the quintessential blazer. As an integral part of traditional menswear and even 2k13 #menswear, Wu masterfully streamlined its design by eliminating the classic (and more or less decorative) lapels in a manner that is unequivocally understated and simultaneously a testament to her expert tailoring. Though nothing more than a simple revamping of a staple piece, this decision still lends brilliantly to the idea of placing the focus on the collection’s more modern details like the unisex shapes and the interplay between different textures and colours.
This complementation couldn’t be any more relevant when you observe the intricate, striated ribbing of the splendid sweaters that are Wu’s centrepieces. Though I still don’t know exactly how she was able to achieve that design element, the impression it gives of loose, individually-cut strips of fabric is certainly a sight to behold in sheer admiration. Furthermore, the juxtaposition of different colours can also be evidenced by the simple colour-blocking achieved with the use of contrast sleeves, an idea that is always the more relevant when intriguing colour combinations are created.
The most remarkable thing about Peir Wu’s designs is how she manages to prove that menswear can be innovative, without necessitating excessive flamboyance and general tastelessness. Instead of simply jumping on the #menswear bandwagon, her designs are a clear demonstration of the understated message of minimalism that is being articulated in the latter branch of menswear. It is a message whose main objective is to attain functionality in design through an experimental process that involves the use of technical materials, innovative cutting techniques and, most of all, modern elegance via androgynous tailoring.
Wu on Peir, woo on.
Before anything, kindly watch the video.
With that said and done, can we please talk about FKA twigs? As the current music darling for all the #relevant music blogs out there, FKA twigs has pretty much reached “It girl” status in the universe of underground and “un-mainstream” music. I mean, with her captivating videos, enchanting voice, and her ability to manipulate her vocals and juxtapose them over mesmerizing bass and hauntingly short moments of silence in a manner reminiscent of James Blake , this truly talented artist has definitely merited her enviable title as “the shit.” J Blizzy would definitely be proud.
Plus, her entire essence is simply captivating and so damn London.
(I would call her style dark, but that’s like so ironic and passé)
Make sure to support FKA twigs by buying her latest, superb release, EP2! Find it on iTunes (or wherever else you buy music online).